KAPOOKABABY

Chinese whispers

Jetstar Magazine

04 09 2011

We go in search of Sydney’s secret tastes of China.

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Sydney’s best cupcakes

ninemsn

Cupcakes

It was a scene to reverberate throughout the baking world for years to come: Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw licking the creamy pink icing off the side of her mouth, having taken a bite out of a cupcake in front of New York’s Magnolia Bakery. Years later the cupcake craze shows no signs of abating. And with Australia being no exception, everyone in Sydney has their favourite cupcake joint … but which bakery is truly the best? We take the ultimate tasting tour.

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Here’s $1mill but you can never leave Sydney

“Would you accept $1million on the condition that you could never leave Sydney? Even on holidays?” This was a hypothetical posed to the group at drinks last night, and came back to me in thought as I ended a very fine weekend in Sydney, crossing the harbour bridge in a train bound for the suburbs. That blue ocean sprayed with starry sunlight, a sight so magnificent even the most jaded of Sydney-siders look up from their novels, or newspapers, or general despondent nothing, to admire the view and sighing think, “how beautiful”. It’s such a dazzling, resplendent beauty you almost feel the city is consciously and shamefully flaunting itself.

Being back in Sydney inevitably causes me to reflect on a life lived divided into two cities, – and consider which of the two is more worthy. This last year in Beijing has been, in some respects, a bit of a failure. There I have resumed life as a student, an exchange student at that, living on campus. As you can guess, at 90% of the dinners I sat down in I have been the oldest person at the table. So, you could say that the last year has been like reliving my early 20s.

The problem is, at 26, it doesn’t feel so much like a nostalgic walk down memory lane, so much as a nauseating feeling that I haven’t quite moved on. All around me there are kids – great kids, but still, kids – doing what you do in your early 20s: solid drinking, clubs, one-night stands, obsessive crushes, self-combusting friendships, study, internships, part-time work, travel, non-stop adventures. Mostly things that I, too, have partaken in while in Beijing.

I’ve come back to Sydney and caught up with old friends, and found myself craving the components of their lives: careers, salaries, stable relationships, old friends, family, apartments, news, politics, exercise, cooking, brunches, movies, art exhibitions, gigs, nice things, direction, stability. This weekend was a peek into what my life could look like should I return, and I liked it.

Of course, many of these things I could have in Beijing. If I quit the student life, took up full-time work, and accordingly shook up my social habits. But there will always be one vital ingredient that Sydney will always have over every other city on this planet.

Old friends.

OK and family, citizenship and therefore participation in the political process – but let’s just focus on friendships today. One of my best friends has just made her first move to another city. And in writing about making new friends, she points out, her very full life in Sydney contained:

… the number and quality of friends that comes from spending twentysomething years of one’s life in the same city.

As someone who is now onto her fourth city of living (Sydney, London, Buenos Aires and now Beijing) I feel that while I’ve become better and better and making new friends, and quantity is no issue, it will almost always be impossible to ever replicate the quality of my Sydney friendships. And this is said with full respect to all the amazing people I’ve met in Beijing, there is one missing and impossible ingredient: time.

I’ve regularly said that no friendship can be considered true until tested with time. Time allows a friendship to go through all sorts of trials and tribulations: new boyfriends, new friends, family dramas, career jealousies, political divisions, religious awakenings, changing lifestyles and interests, deaths, sicknesses and births.

What’s amazed me is that I have a handful of truly great Sydney friends, one whom I’ve known for over 20 years, and the newest still a mature 6 years, whose friendships – though ebbed and waned in that time – remain now intact and very much awesome. And they are like this, partly because living in one city for most of one’s life gives you the opportunity to (subconsciously) ‘cull’ away the friendships that didn’t work from those that did, but also because the fact that they remained in tact through all those hardships only made them stronger.

Don’t believe me? Think about one of your best friends, who’s known you for ages. You don’t just love him or her because you think they’re great, they think you’re great, and life is a riot when you’re together (and it is.) You also love them because they know about your foibles, about your fucked up relationship with you parents, about your vanities, and insecurities, about your bad romances, and worst habits. And yet they still love you, as you do them. And they bring the best out of you. They bring the best friend out in you.

That kind of inside-and-outside, through-and-through trust and insight is irreplaceable. These friendships are like a battered old chair or wooden bench. It’s been through the wars, but the fact that it’s remained is a testament to its strength; prosaically dependable, comfortable, loving, magically all the right dimensions, a vital presence.

I want to stress one more time that I am so grateful for some of the amazing friendships I’ve made in Beijing. But by the very nature of the expat lives we lead in that city, where most people stay 6 months, 1 year, a few years at the most, these friendships will never be given the time ingredient that is so necessary for them to become vital. And once you accept that the revolving door of friendships inherent in expat life can never replace those of your home city, one must ask how important is this to you?

For me, the older I get, increasingly so.

(That said, I’d like to write a future post make the case for living overseas, at least once for a few years.)


Bubble boys and girls: China is an island

“Remember, none of them have been overseas,” the teacher mentioned, in reference to the rest of the class.

We had been discussing whether Australians found it strange that despite my Chinese appearance I didn’t speak any Chinese languages, and had an Australian accent. I replied that such a thing wasn’t so uncommon in Australia, but when I traveled the locals of places like Europe and South America, which have relatively small, Chinese populations, found it a little strange.

Her comment – that none of the Chinese students had been overseas (well except for one, who was ethnically Korean and had been to Korea) – or perhaps it was mine, was yet another reminder of how I differed to the rest of the students in the class.

Let’s imagine six villages.

The five villages are all interconnected: they communicate with one another, trade and share goods, news, information, ideas, and culture. There is a movement of people between the villages: be they short visits, work related or migration. So even though in each village the majority of the population stay in their own village and never set foot in the other villages – almost all of them know someone who has.

The sixth village, however, is isolated from the rest. It has little communication or trading and sharing of ideas with the other five, and there is almost no movement of people – either in or out. In this case, not only is there an even greater majority of the population who has never seen another village – hardly any of them know anyone who has.

Now, this sixth village is very, very big. So perhaps there is enough dynamicism within the village to rival the five villages put together. The thing is, there’s also a very powerful organisation in charge of this village, that attempted to eradicate many differences between families and put into place a culture of heavy conformity. This makes the sixth village an even more remarkably different place to the five other villages.

This may be an extreme analogy for China, but still, I am constantly struck anew by how “closed” China was, still is – although it’s changing, and wonder what the implications are. When I talk to a Chinese, it’s not just a case of realising they’ve never been overseas, but also that they’ve grown up in a world where no one they know has been overseas either.

Remember this girl I had lunch with, and who said I was the first foreigner she’d ever met? Many other Chinese students I’ve talked to said the first foreigner they’d ever met was their language teacher. Which Sydney-sider born and raised could ever even remember meeting their first “foreigner”? Sydney is packed full of them! They’re called … Sydney-siders.

And this is just the general experience for Chinese students attending a top tier Beijing university. Many of them may not have been overseas, but most of them will likely, at some point, have the opportunity to. It’s not the same story, however, for the nation’s majority countryside peasant population.

For more on how and why China is an island, head to this fascinating post by Kevin Kelly (via. Strange Maps, via. John Maudlin’s Outside the Box.)

Interesting fact: here, a “migrant worker” isn’t someone who’s migrated from overseas, but someone who’s moved from one province to another, within China. Imagine if you had to ask for – and it was difficult to get – permission to move from Victoria to NSW? But it makes more sense when you remember that China (1.3 billion) has a greater population than all of Europe (0.5 billion), and a greater land mass (9.6 million km2, 4.3 million km2 respectively).

This new documentary ‘Last Train Home‘ looks like a fascinating and moving treatise on the migrant worker experience here:


Why gay people carry the burden of China’s one-child policy

I gatecrashed another Chinese lecture today, this time about queer/lesbian theory. I was surprised to find that even in that class, of mature, thoughtful, generally female post-grad students, who no doubt have more liberal attitudes than your average Chinese – well even they were very unaccustomed to and felt uncomfortable with gay people/ culture/ rights – with gayness in general.

I tried to forgive them for this, and remember that this country is back by about 30 or so years when it comes to the acceptance of homosexuality. (I believe it was only de-illegalised a few years ago. There are no laws to protect homosexuals from discrimination.)

I think they were a little shocked by my ‘liberal’ attitudes towards homosexuality, plus sexual orientation and gender identities. As I said to them, I come from one of the most multicultural cities in the world, where women have the same rights as men, and has one of the biggest homosexual communities in the world. A homosexual community that isn’t just “tolerated” but is, on the whole, celebrated and has and continues to influence the wider city culture in a big way.

My city is dynamic, open, with lots of different ideas, cultures, subcultures, ways of life, and looking at the world, mixing altogether. And for me, my identity roles: as a woman, as a Chinese Australian, as a (generally) straight person, as a professional, as a hipsterllectual, as someone participating in online communities that know no physical borders, and many others – these are very unstable, mutating, complicated, sometimes indistinct from their so-called binary opposite.

Whereas my initial impressions from China has been that it is a country coming out of a very long period of having been closed. Compared to Australia, there is little multiculturalism (you are clearly classified as either a mainland Chinese born and bred local, or a foreigner) and very traditional identity roles, which are only slowly being chipped away at. Here, it’s very clear that if you’re born with a certain body (male/ female) what you’re meant to do. And so long as you do it, you’ll be fine.

(Too bad if you feel inclinations otherwise.)

I thought perhaps I was being too harsh, but then the tutor leader, also the dean of the department, spoke up. She said when she spent some time studying in Australia, she found the experience to be extremely disorientating, because it seemed like nothing was fixed. It was a challenge, and in some respects began to question herself.

An interesting China-specific gay issue was passed onto me by my gay Spanish friend here. He told me of his gay, Chinese housemate, who at 30 was at the receiving end of increasing pressure from his parents to marry. In truth, he didn’t mind being with women, but marriage was out of the question because it’d mean he’d have to stop having sex with men! Like most gay and lesbian people in this country, he hadn’t come out to his parents.

And he, like almost all the young urban-born Chinese, was an only child. Which meant there was an even greater pressure on him to marry, procreate, and thereby continue the family line.